Mijn arcade kast is toegekomen! Hier alvast de eerste foto’s en indrukken:
hier en daar wat schimmel, maar helemaal niet in het hout getrokken, lijkt me
praktisch geen vochtschade zover ik al gezien heb.
ik heb de pries even ingestoken en enkel een zekering horen/zien springen (vonkjes), daar moet ik dus verder naar kijken.
de marquee (dat plexiglas met apple time op) is heel proper te krijgen en die “amigo” is een sticker langs de binnenkant die er heel makkelijk afkomt
de t-moldig (zwarte plastiek langs de randen) is versleten, moet ik opmeten en nieuwe voor bestellen, voor de juiste maat heb ik al een sample bij t-molding.com besteld.
ik heb 121 frank gevonden in de kast, nadat ik met wd-40 het verroeste slot perfect openkreeg (en het onderste slot heb ik dan nog niet eens opengekregen, al verwacht ik niet dat daar geld gaat inzitten)
de monitor is een hantarex mtc-900 (http://the.nerv.free.fr/docpro/MTC900_1.pdf), vrij common
de teller van het aantal keer gespeeld staat op 15880, maw. 15880×20 fr =317600 fr = ong 7800 euro dat het spel heeft opgebracht. best wel wat dus.
After a question on ArcadeZentrum’s Facebook page (https://www.facebook.com/groups/arcadezentrum) about whether or not it is possible to use an arduino uno or mega2560 as a ledwiz replacement, I got to work trying it out.
what is ledwiz? It is a usb device that works together with several arcade emulator frontends and virtual pinball frontends to light up leds and spin motors etc in response to game-events. (sold on http://groovygamegear.com) Unfortunately it is quite expensive to get to Europe.
We stumbled upon this: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=132903.0, where philip88 is using a bare atmega-32u2 chip on a breakoutboard as the ledwiz replacement. You have to download LWCloneU2.zip from there. (or here: www.bertclaes.be/ledwiz/LWCloneU2.zip) and unpack this.
I tried to replicate it, using the 16u2 present on the uno R3 (the 16u2 replaced the old 8u2).
First I had to reset the 16u2, so I could reprogram it. This is done by powering the arduino (e.g. by plugging in the usb) and shorting these two pins here:
(CAREFUL: on the R3, there is already the correct transistor there (just above those pins), on R2 and R1, you have to follow this guide: http://arduino.cc/en/Hacking/DFUProgramming8U2)
Second step is to build the firmware philip88 provided with the latest LUFA-source code.
Be sure to put either (64bit) C:\Program Files (x86)\Atmel\AVR Tools\AVR Toolchain\bin or C:\Program Files\Atmel\AVR Tools\AVR Toolchain\bin (32 bit) in your PATH enviroment variable.
Then you have to edit the file “makefile” in the firmware directory of your unpacked LWCloneU2.zip.
You will have to change “LUFA_PATH = ../../LUFA/LUFA-120730/LUFA” to the correct path where you have put the LUFA source code. I also changed “MCU = atmega32u2” to “MCU = atmega16u2” just to be sure.
After that you will have to build the new firmware for the 16u2, by running make when in the firmware directory.
If the building is successful it will say “Finished building project \”LWCloneU2\” and several files will be created inside the firmware folder.
Third thing is flashing that firmware onto the 16u2. For this you will need Atmel’s Flip application, which you can download on http://www.atmel.com/tools/flip.aspx. in flip you have to select your target device (ATmega 16U2) and the Communication Medium (USB). If flip gives the error “could not open USB device”, you haven’t correctly reset the 16u2 and have to short the two pins again. Another error i got was “atlibusbdfu.dll not found”, I resolved that one by unplugging the usb of the arduino and plugging it back in, it installed a driver at that moment.
If you have successfully selected the right target device and Communication Medium in Flip, you can load the HEX file from the firmware folder of LWCloneU2 and press the Run button at the bottom left. It takes a couple of seconds, and the firmware is now replaced.
To test the chip, you can use the testapp.exe inside the LWCloneU2.zip in the command line, but you will have to install Microsoft Visual C++ Redistributable from here: http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=30679 (32 and 64 bit just to be sure) or it will tell you “The program can’t start because MSVCR110.dll is missing from your computer.” If all goes well, both the Tx an Rx leds on the arduino board should light up and you will get “ledwiz device found, id: 4” on the command line.
Another app to test it out is Ledblinky’s simple led test, and there you will find out that port 10 corresponds with the rx line and 11 with the tx one and port 13 with the built in test led. just don’t put it on full intensity, because the led will just go out…
Next step will be to try to use all the ports on the arduino by speaking to the mega328-chip trought the 16u2… not sure this is possible…
Cory Doctorow, editor at Boing Boing, Fiction Writer, posts all his books on his website with a Creative Commons license.
I read and loved “Pirate cinema”, “Little Brother” and am now reading the sequel “Homeland”.
His works is described as Young Adult fiction, but is just really well-written fiction which deals with surveillance, piracy, crooked copyright laws and homeland security going awry.
In this post, I will outline how to connect a barebone ATmega382 IC (the brains of an arduino UNO) to a raspberry pi using the GPIO pins.
Needed parts:
This barebones arduino kit (from iprototype.be) : 7,45 € (includes a socket, a 16 Mhz Crystal, some capacitors, some resistors and a LED (which I accidentaly blew :s)) (build instructions can be found here: http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Standalone. The only difference here is that we don’t need the FTDI-usb-breakout board (which costs 14.95$) (This role is taken over by the raspberry pi). This is powered by a 9V battery.
A Logic Level Converter: bought this one from ebay (4,5€). (sparkfun also sells one). You will need one with at least 4 channels. This converts the gpio levels from 5v (arduino) to 3.3 v (raspberry pi), since the pi’s pins aren’t protected and 5v can destroy the pi. Remember to connect the ground of the Pi to the ground of the Arduino (this stopped me in my tracks for a while)
I also had an Adafruit Pi T-Cobbler and two breadboards.
The settings made on the raspberry pi (commenting out all the /dev/ttyAMA0) are important, or it won’t connect serially.
BTW: You can monitor the serial output of the arduino by typing “screen /dev/ttyAMA0”. The only thing is that the upload fails when there is traffic on the serial output of the arduino. It only works after a reset of the arduino.
The other main part is to never ever connect the Raspberry Pi directly to the arduino(-chip), or the Pi can be blown up. That’s where the Logic Level Converter comes in.
The connections to be made (All Trough the Logic Level Converter):
[table] Arduino, Raspberry Pi
D0 (Rx), Tx
D1 (Tx), Rx
RST, Gpio #24
Vcc, 3.3 V
[/table]Be Sure to also connect the Ground of the pi directly to the ground of the Arduino, or it won't work!
The RST (reset) to Gpio 24 serves to reset the arduino right before uploading the sketch.
The setup here is an arduino connected to a potentiometer on pin A0 and a LED on pin D9 (PWM).
When you turn the potmeter, the LED goes brighter or less bright, and eventually completely off.
const int buttonPin = 2
int led = 9; // the pin that the LED is attached to
int brightness = 0; // how bright the LED is
int fadeAmount = 5; // how many points to fade the LED by
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:
void setup() {
// declare pin 9 to be an output:
pinMode(led, OUTPUT);
Serial.begin(9600);
Serial.flush();
pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT);
}
// the loop routine runs over and over again forever:
void loop() {
// read the potmeter on A0
int sensorValue = analogRead(A0);
// read the state of the button:
buttonstate = digitalread(buttonPin);
// set the brightness of pin 9:
analogWrite(led, brightness);
// change the brightness for next time through the loop:
//brightness = half of the potoutput;
brightness = sensorValue/4;
Finally got ‘round to documenting some of my first experiments on the raspberry pi.
i’ve done some temperature logging with an ds18b20 sensor, used a button and lit some leds.
some python code I used to blink the LED 5 times when i press the button:
[sourcecode language=”python”]
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import time
GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)
# button is connected to gpio #23
GPIO.setup(23, GPIO.IN)
# set up GPIO output channel for the LED
GPIO.setup(18, GPIO.OUT)
# blinking function
def blink(pin):
GPIO.output(pin,GPIO.HIGH)
time.sleep(1)
GPIO.output(pin,GPIO.LOW)
time.sleep(1)
return
while True:
if ( GPIO.input(23) == False ):
# blink LED 5 times
for i in range(0,5):
blink(18)
[/sourcecode]
Reading the temperature sensor
[sourcecode]
import os
import glob
import time
while True:
print read_temp()
time.sleep(1)
[/sourcecode]
The Two Combined: When you press the button, the led blinks five times and each time it probe the sensor for the current temperature:
[sourcecode]
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO
import os
import glob
import time
# blinking function
GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)
GPIO.setup(23, GPIO.IN)
# set up GPIO output channel
GPIO.setup(18, GPIO.OUT)
os.system(‘modprobe w1-gpio’)
os.system(‘modprobe w1-therm’)
The makers describe it as An invention kit for everyone.
“MaKey MaKey is an invention kit for the 21st century. Turn everyday objects into touchpads and combine them with the internet. It’s a simple Invention Kit for Beginners and Experts doing art, engineering, and everything inbetween”
It connects to your pc using USB (no drivers needed), and once you connect something conductive (iron, skin, banana, …) to it, the makey-makey sends keypresses to your pc.
This way you can control games, virtual pianos/samplers, … using physical/real objects.
Tested it with my four-year old, who was amazed and thrilled!
(this video is of the makers, not mine)
However, if you want to access the arduino mode (it is based on an arduino), you run into some issues with windows 8. Installing the driver is a bit of a nightmare.
Luckily, the driver isn’t needed for basic experimenting.
These are the steps I follow to get it eventually working for me:
"I have come up with an alternative method to install the Arduino drivers on Windows 8.
This method does not require new driver files or installation of a test signature."
1. Windows Key + R
2. Enter shutdown.exe /r /o /f /t 00
3. Click the "OK" button
4. System will restart to a "Choose an option" screen
5. Select "Troubleshoot" from "Choose an option" screen
6. Select "Advanced options" from "Troubleshoot" screen
7. Select "Windows Startup Settings" from "Advanced options" screen
8. Click "Restart" button
9. System will restart to "Advanced Boot Options" screen
10. Select "Disable Driver Signature Enforcement"
11. Once the system starts, install the Arduino drivers as you would on Windows 7
Steps to install driver after Driver Signature Enforcement has been disabled:
1. Right click the Unknown Device in Device Manager
2. Select Update Driver Software
3. Select Browse my computer for software
4. Click Browse button
5. Select the Drivers folder under the location of your Arduino software installation. (Do not select the FTDI folder inside the Drivers folder)
6. Click OK
7. Click Next
next you have to do this: (from Josh Keys on Sparkfun)
1) Remove any drivers you have for the device already
2) Windows will recognize the device as an Arduino Leonardo. Update the drivers and point it to your Arduino folder.. for me /arduino01.0.3/drivers
3) Windows will install the Arduino Leonardo drivers and set it to an available comport.
4) Open your arduino IDE and the Makey Makey source file from sparkfun.
5) Make sure you have Tools->Board selected as Arduino Leonardo and also Tools->Serial Port selected to the appropriate COM Port
6) Open Device manager, get the Arduino IDE and your device manager on the same screen so you can see them both
7) Attempt to upload to the makey makey (The right arrow button)
8) Watch closely in your device manager, you will see the Arduino Leonardo disappear and briefly the Makey Makey will appear under your unknown devices implying it has no drivers. You need to click on it fast to catch it and select “Update Drivers”
9) Direct the driver selection to the location where you stored your sparkfun makey makey driver. For me this is /Documents/Arduino/hardware/MakeyMakey/driver
10) It will attempt to install the driver but most likely say it failed in the end because it didn’t have enough time
11) Wait for the Arduino IDE to fail again, then try reprogramming, possibly one more time if needed.
12) Bask in the sweet joy of seeing “Done Uploading” and enjoy your makey makey
What I believe is going on is that the device is placed in a programming mode briefly when you try to upload and is looking for a makey makey device. Sorry for the long explanation, just trying to make it easy for everyone. Let me know if this worked for anyone.
Then select the new Com port in the Arduino IDE and change “board'” to makey makey, and you’re all set!
Na een eerste luisterbeurt van hun nieuwste worp “Control, control, control” valt me vooral op dat ze eigenlijk een rock-groep zijn, maar ook een groot publiek aanspreken dat vooral “electronic music” beluistert. En volgens mij zouden veel van hun nummers ook werken met een “klassieke” band-opstelling (gitaar, bas, drums).
Was op hun vorige plaat het nummer “words” in hun eigen woorden “een experiment”, nu ligt de volledige plaat in die strekking, namelijk een rock/eighties electronica-richting. Which I love.
Op Spotify is er een commentary track, waarin Goose hun nieuwe plaat bespreekt. Absoluut de moeite!
Hun officieel Youtube kanaal: http://www.youtube.com/user/GooseVideoMan
De dochter van Terry Gilliam( één van de mensen achter Monty Python, hun vaste tekenaar/animator en regisseur van films zoals 12 Monkeys, Brazil en The Imaginarium of Dr. Parnassus), is begonnen met de archieven van haar vader uit te spitten. Ze post op regelmatige basis schetsen, mockups en scenarios online op haar blog.
Zeker de moeite waard voor elke Monty Python-fan of filmliefhebber